Holiday Lights Mask Italy's Far-Right Show

In the gardens surrounding Rome's Castel Sant'Angelo, children are seen racing toward a Christmas skating rink, unaware of the blue signs that read "Italy with her head held high." This is the setting for Atreju, a political winter fair organized by Brothers of Italy, the far-right party led by Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni. The event serves as a holiday showcase highlighting the growing influence of the right in Italian politics.

Once a small gathering of activists, Atreju has evolved into a major event attracting global figures such as Elon Musk and former British Conservative Prime Minister Rishi Sunak. This year, the festival is held in the gardens of Castel Sant'Angelo, a historic site that once served as the mausoleum of Emperor Hadrian and later as a papal palace.

The nine-day festival features a Christmas tree adorned with flashing lights, a skating rink, a playground with swings, and booths selling ornaments and nativity scenes. It is a family-friendly event, though subtle hints of its political nature are present beneath the surface.

Among the party members wearing badges and enthusiastic volunteers from the party’s youth wing, there were also voters from both sides of the political spectrum enjoying the festive atmosphere. Ilaria D'Ambrosio, a 46-year-old resident of Tuscany, said she found the environment to be very cheerful and family-oriented. She mentioned that she had voted for Meloni and was pleased with her performance so far, noting that Italy was showing signs of improvement.

Although Brothers of Italy flags were not prominently displayed at the event, the back side of the Roman-era monument was illuminated with the words, “You've become strong Atreju.” Mario Trupo, a 63-year-old Roman, expressed curiosity about the event, noting that it was unusual for the party to have received authorization to hold the festival in such a prominent location. He admitted he did not vote but said, “They're all the same,” referring to Italy’s political class.

Meloni is set to close the festival on the final day, with other notable guests this year including Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas and French hard-right lawmaker Marion Marechal. Past speakers have included Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor Orban, Argentine President Javier Milei, and Steve Bannon, a former political strategist for U.S. President Donald Trump. Italian opposition leader Elly Schlein of the center-left Democratic Party declined an invitation this year.

• Charlie Kirk... and Pasolini -

Atreju was first organized by Meloni in 1998 when she was the national coordinator for the youth division of the National Alliance, a precursor to Brothers of Italy. The name of the event comes from the child warrior protagonist of "The Neverending Story," a 1979 novel by German writer Michael Ende, which is popular among Italy’s right-wing circles.

The event has gained more prominence as Meloni’s party has risen to become the most popular in Italy during the 2022 elections. The shift of Atreju from September to December in 2021, along with the addition of Christmas-themed attractions, helped attract larger crowds.

One woman, who chose to remain anonymous, stated that the political aspect of the event did not interest her. She was more focused on capturing photos of her daughter as she tried to balance on ice skates. Others, like New Yorker Amanda Singh, 25, were unaware of the political context behind the festival, which also featured roasted pig, fried pizza, and beer.

“You wouldn't have known it was political,” she said. “I love it… everyone is nice!”

On the sidelines, a cultural “hegemony” wall displayed photographs of individuals who “put courage, heroism, and freedom before any political logic.” Among those featured were national war hero Gabriele D'Annunzio, assassinated MAGA influencer Charlie Kirk, and surprisingly, Pier Paolo Pasolini, the poet and filmmaker who was expelled from the Communist Party for being gay but remained associated with the left.

Another wall labeled “hate words of the left” showcased statements made by opposition figures, with votes cast on their level of “originality” and “rancour.”

From a nearby hut, a Father Christmas observed the scene. When asked what he thought of it all, he replied, “Santa Claus does not vote. Santa Claus is here for the enjoyment of the children.”