John Varvatos Unearths SoHo Heritage in New Store and Collection

A New Chapter for John Varvatos in SoHo

John Varvatos is celebrating its 25th anniversary with a fresh start in one of the most iconic neighborhoods in New York City. The brand, now under the ownership of Lion/Hendrix Cayman Ltd., has returned to SoHo, where it first opened its doors in 2000. This time, the brand has unveiled a new 3,200-square-foot store at 73 Wooster Street. Alongside the store's opening, the company launched the John Varvatos Anniversary Collection and introduced a campaign that reflects the brand’s deep roots in both New York and rock ‘n’ roll culture.

Catherine Jobling, chief operating officer of Varvatos and its sister brand, AllSaints, described the move as "a love letter to New York." She emphasized that the brand wanted to reconnect with its original community and sit among its peers in the fashion industry. The new store is designed to showcase the brand’s signature aesthetic—American alternative luxury infused with rock-inspired style. Features include 13-foot ceilings, antique fixtures, custom vintage furnishings, modular bronze screens, and three sculptures. The space will also house a curated selection of fine art and music photography from the Morrison Hotel Gallery, alongside musical instruments on display.

A Legacy of Rock and Refinement

Founded by John Varvatos in 1999, the brand initially operated under Nautica Enterprises. When VF Corp. acquired Nautica in 2003, Varvatos became part of the corporation. However, the brand struggled to gain attention during this period. In 2012, VF sold a majority stake in the business to Lion Capital. The brand faced further challenges during the pandemic, filing for bankruptcy in 2020. Lion/Hendrix Cayman Ltd. later purchased the business for around $97 million, and Varvatos left the company. He is now the chief design officer for Under Armour.

Despite the founder’s departure, the brand continues to uphold the aesthetic he created. Karl Aberg, the current vice president of creative, worked closely with Varvatos for many years and is deeply familiar with the brand’s history. To commemorate the 25th anniversary, Aberg designed a 25-piece collection called "A Love Letter," featuring pieces inspired by the brand’s archive but updated with modern fits and fabrics.

Key items in the collection include the Ellwood shearling coat, a revival of a design from Varvatos' fall 2000 runway show; the Woodward soft jacket, crafted in Italian lambskin with a silver herringbone print; and the Varick jacket and Mercer pants, both offered in metallic-threaded houndstooth. The collection also includes the Anthony trucker and J703 jeans with silver foil finishes, highlighting the brand’s rock ‘n’ roll heritage. Footwear highlights feature the Two-Five-Zip Boot, an update of the Morrison Sharpei, in silver-treated sheepskin.

A New Identity for the Brand

The anniversary collection features a new label developed in-house, which will also be used on the store’s shopping bags. The hand-drawn emblem is inspired by medallions and hallmarks, featuring two interweaving J's with filigree over a V. The anniversary mark appears on the creased knit velvet bomber, Salvator, in beaded embroidery on the chest. It is also embroidered and overprinted on a graphic T-shirt and woven into a soft, tonal allover jacquard pattern in a silk blend.

Jobling reported strong full-price sales for the anniversary collection since its release. Popular items include a coat inspired by a design from 2000, the denim collection with a relaxed fit, and a deep red tuxedo. At the same time, the company launched a campaign shot by Timothy White, capturing scenes in SoHo, Chinatown, under the Brooklyn Bridge, and at 315 Bowery, the former home of the underground music club CBGB.

Expanding the Brand's Presence

The Wooster Street store brings the total number of John Varvatos units to 17, making it the brand’s most elaborate location. This year alone, the company has opened, relocated, or renovated four other stores: San Francisco, San Diego, Las Vegas, and Miami. Jobling noted that these expansions are helping the business grow. While the outlet segment is not performing as well, the company is focused on protecting its full-price business. The wholesale segment remains steady, and Jobling expressed gratitude for the positive sales in a challenging market.

She also highlighted that the brand benefits from its unique "edge," which sets it apart from more subdued luxury brands. For those seeking something adventurous, the brand offers a distinct identity. To celebrate the new store, the company will host a party at the Hotel Chelsea on Tuesday.