Couture Review: Angelina Jolie's Sad Glamour in a Dull Fashion Drama

A Glimpse into the World of High Fashion

Fashion is a serious business. It generates billions of dollars annually and shapes culture in both overt and subtle ways. However, when it comes to film, the world of haute couture is often portrayed through a lens of satire or absurdity. Think of Robert Altman’s "Pret-a-Porter" or the over-the-top comedy "Zoolander." In contrast, French director Alice Winocour takes a more earnest approach in her latest film, "Couture," offering a nuanced look at the industry that is as much about mood as it is about style.

The film centers around Paris Fashion Week, weaving together multiple intersecting storylines that converge on the grand event. Angelina Jolie stars as Maxine, an indie-horror director who travels from America to Paris to shoot a short film that will accompany the runway show. She is joined by Anyier Anei as Ada, a model from South Sudan who is new to the scene and navigating the challenges of this exclusive world. Ella Rumpf plays a makeup artist and novelist who observes the glamorous yet exclusive environment with a poetic detachment, while Garance Marillier portrays a seamstress working on a crucial garment.

Through these characters, the film offers a glimpse into various aspects of the fashion industry—its process, pride, and pressure. Yet, Winocour seems more interested in evoking a sense of melancholic wonder than providing a comprehensive portrait. The film’s narrative structure allows for exploration, but it often feels underdeveloped, leaving many threads unresolved.

The Beauty and the Challenges

Despite its shortcomings, "Couture" has moments of quiet beauty. The climactic runway sequence, for instance, is particularly striking, especially during a rainstorm that brings about a sense of epiphany. Winocour’s direction is stylish, and the evocative score by Filip Leyman and Anna Von Hausswolff enhances the visual storytelling. There are also quieter, more intimate scenes—such as a model resting her swollen feet in an ice bucket or a director admiring the red of fake blood in a movie—that add depth to the film.

Winocour clearly cares for her characters, especially the women who work behind the scenes in an industry still largely controlled by men. However, the film’s construction feels patchy, with some characters receiving minimal development. Ada’s storyline, for example, touches on her family back in Kenya, her concerns about an injury, and her experiences with new friends. But these elements are not explored in depth. Similarly, the makeup artist’s journey is filled with brief interactions that lack cinematic impact.

A Struggle for Depth

Maxine’s storyline introduces a cancer arc that adds emotional weight to the film. While this could have been a powerful element, it is handled with a lack of nuance. Jolie delivers a compelling performance, balancing her iconic presence with a sense of desperation and loneliness. Her chemistry with Louis Garrel, who plays her cinematographer and possible love interest, is particularly effective. However, the film does not give her enough to work with, resulting in a generic portrayal of her struggles.

Jolie’s performance is undoubtedly one of the film’s highlights, but it raises questions about the choices made in shaping the narrative. If the film was designed to showcase her talent, it falls short in providing the necessary depth. The result is a film that feels disjointed, blending Euro-sleek aesthetics with melodramatic elements that do not quite align.

Final Thoughts

While "Couture" may not be a perfect film, it offers a thoughtful, if uneven, exploration of the fashion world. Its visual appeal and performances, particularly Jolie’s, are worth noting. However, the film’s lack of coherence and underdeveloped character arcs leave it feeling somewhat underwhelming.

"Couture" premiered at the 2025 Toronto International Film Festival and is currently seeking U.S. distribution. For those interested in staying updated on film reviews and critical insights, there are opportunities to subscribe to exclusive content.