I Never Loved the Caribbean—Until This Island Changed My Mind

A Unique Caribbean Escape

Dominica is a place that offers something different from the typical Caribbean destinations. For travelers who love to explore, connect with local cultures, and immerse themselves in nature, this island nation is a perfect fit. While many visitors come for the beaches, Dominica has much more to offer—its lush rainforests, volcanic hot springs, and vibrant communities make it stand out.

I’ve visited the Dominican Republic twice, but each time felt like I wasn’t truly experiencing the country. My first trip was spent lounging on beachfront airbnbs, while the second ended with a resort security guard stopping me from going for a simple run. I’ve always preferred exploring, connecting with locals, and discovering what makes a place unique. Lazy beach days just weren’t for me.

After trips to St. Martin and the Bahamas, I began to wonder if the Caribbean wasn’t my scene—until I remembered a trip to Saba 15 years ago. People kept telling me that if I liked exploring, I’d love Dominica. Not to be confused with the Dominican Republic, this small island nation, nestled between Guadeloupe and Martinique, is known as The Nature Island. While it does have white- and black-sand beaches, it’s the rainforests, rivers, waterfalls, and volcanic hot springs that truly define it.

A few months ago, I finally made the trip to Dominica, thanks to a new nonstop flight from Newark International Airport (EWR) to Douglas-Charles Airport (DOM). The journey to the capital city of Roseau was an adventure in itself, with dramatic sea cliffs and dense forests around every turn. We passed through rustic villages and national parks before arriving at Fort Young Hotel.

Unlike other Caribbean hotels, Fort Young Hotel is built within a military fortress dating back to 1699. Over the past six decades, it has been transformed into a modern, comfortable space with an on-site dive shop and art gallery. Its location across from downtown allowed me to walk to local markets and coffee shops in under five minutes.

During my five-day stay, Dominica continuously amazed me with its natural beauty and endless activities. I was particularly struck by the twin cascades of Trafalgar Falls and the sulfur hot springs at Ti Kwen Glo Cho, which means “little corner of water.” Despite the island's mostly green landscape, I was surprised by the Calibishie Red Rocks, a barrier reef filled with sea caves and crashing waves.

We also took a rowboat tour down the Indian River with Cobra Tours. The way the tropical foliage reflected on the glassy water made it feel like a real-life version of Disneyland’s Jungle Cruise. As we floated along, our skipper pointed out a shed that had been used as the witch’s house in Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest. It’s no surprise that Hollywood found this picture-perfect setting.

What truly pulled at my heartstrings, however, were the people of Dominica. Many buildings still show the impact of Hurricane Maria in 2017, yet the community remains welcoming and resilient. From locals and Indigenous people to expats drawn by the island’s beauty, there’s a strong sense of connection and pride.

Simon Walsh, owner of Nature Island Dive, has been pioneering coral rehabilitation efforts for over three decades. He shared how they treat infected corals, helping them spawn and create the next generation. He also launched a coral bank to preserve endemic species.

At Paradise Valley Garden Nursery, Dominica native Dian Douglas turned his dream land into a botanical paradise. After years in New Jersey, he returned home to create a tropical oasis filled with unique art and plants. Every item and leaf tells a story, showcasing his passion and creativity.

The same love for the island was evident in the Kalingo community, who recreated their traditional village at Kalinago Barana Auté. A Brooklyn couple also moved their family to Dominica, running a homestay and crafting small-batch gin with local botanicals through Sea Cliff Botanical Gin.

My final stop was Secret Bay, a longtime Travel + Leisure favorite. The treetop villas offer stunning views of the ocean and cliffs, making it feel like a private corner of the island. The botanic garden dining experience was unforgettable, with the chef cooking al fresco using ingredients right outside. I was especially taken by the self-operated funicular, mesmerized by the shifting views as it climbed toward my villa.

As Gregor Nassief, owner of Secret Bay, said over dinner: “In Dominica, it’s the depth, authenticity, and the people element of the experiences that make it so unique in the Caribbean.”