The Secret Behind a Bay Area Ice Cream Classic's New Flavor

The Creative Process Behind a Unique Ice Cream Flavor

Sydney Arkin, the owner of Bad Walter’s Bootleg Ice Cream in Oakland, has a background that might surprise many. Growing up, she often had Fruit Loops for dinner. “I just had a lot of access to sugar and no real oversight,” she said. That early exposure to sweetness may have played a role in her creative process, which has led to the development of numerous unusual and fun ice cream flavors.

When the pandemic hit, Arkin was working an advertising job and found herself with more free time than usual. She decided to try making ice cream, starting with a friend’s Cuisinart 30. As her passion grew, so did her equipment—eventually upgrading to a Lello Musso 5030 and later a Carpigiani 502, a popular choice among professionals in the frozen treat industry.

Today, Bad Walter’s has 13 employees, with Arkin as the owner, Nolan King as the production lead, and Julianne Bell as the pastry chef. The shop, located at 5800 College Ave., opened almost a year ago in the former Smitten location on College Avenue. “A dream come true spot,” Arkin said, recalling how she felt when Smitten closed. She even has a video of her dog, Walter, eating ice cream there in 2017.

The shop was named after Arkin’s husband’s dog, Walter, whom he adopted before meeting her. Arkin described Walter as an “asshole,” but when a friend suggested naming the business after him, she thought it was too much. However, when the suggestion was changed to “Bad Walter’s,” the idea clicked.

Over the past year, Bad Walter’s has created around 115 flavors, averaging one to two new flavors per week. All of their ice creams are lactose-free, and they always offer a sorbet and a gluten-free flavor. One of their earlier creations was inspired by an article about Kevin, the Rockridge peacock.

How a Flavor is Born

Arkin credits her background in advertising with helping her develop such a wide range of unique ice cream flavors. “A lot of people don’t think of advertising as creative, but when you see a really beautifully done ad, you see that there is creativity behind it,” she said. “And I think coming from being a creative director in advertising, you find inspiration in a lot of random things.”

Names are just as important as the flavors themselves. “A name can really sell a flavor,” Arkin said. “Which is really exciting for me because that’s one of my favorite parts of the process.” Sometimes the name comes first, and sometimes the flavor does. For example, “Sexual Chocolate” was based on the name of a band in the film “Coming to America.”

Recently, the team was working on a new flavor called “Rize and Shine,” a collaboration with San Francisco’s Rize Up Bakery. The idea came after Arkin tasted a peanut butter and jelly sandwich made with Rize Up Bakery bread but skipped the peanut butter. She was left with the combination of bread and jam, which she thought could be turned into ice cream.

The name wasn’t finalized until right before the labels were printed. The flavor was released on Wednesday, July 23, and available through Sunday, July 27.

The Science Behind the Flavor

Creating a new ice cream flavor is a meticulous process. Arkin described it in scientific terms, testing different ingredients in various amounts and ways until they find the perfect balance. Sometimes this takes multiple variations, while other times, they get it right on the first or second try.

For the “Rize and Shine” flavor, the team tested several versions. The first attempt involved brown butter sourdough ice cream with roasted strawberry jam and candied bread crumbs. The initial test didn’t go as planned, as the butter hadn’t fully emulsified, resulting in a texture that was too buttery.

This time, they took a different approach. They heated the base, added sugar, and ensured the butter was properly emulsified. Then, they blended in the sourdough pieces and tested the toast method to achieve the best texture. After some adjustments, they churned the mixture in a gelato machine, which adds less air, resulting in a thicker consistency.

Once the ice cream was ready, Arkin performed a “plop test” to check its structure. If it held its shape, it was ready for tasting. After a successful test, they added roasted strawberries to enhance the flavor. The result was a creamy, buttery ice cream with a subtle bread texture and a sweet, fruity finish.

Collaboration and Creativity

The success of each new flavor relies heavily on teamwork. Arkin, Bell, and King each bring their expertise to the table, ensuring every step of the process is executed flawlessly. “I think the collaboration between the three of us is super cool and unique,” Arkin said. “We’re all overseeing different parts of the process. We can all add different things.”

Looking ahead, Bad Walter’s has plans for another collaboration next month with Uptown Oakland’s Mama’s Boy. Until then, customers can enjoy the “Rize and Shine” flavor from Wednesday, July 23, through Sunday, July 27. With new flavors released weekly, there’s always something fresh and exciting to try.